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Staub: the buyer's guide

Staub is the other great French cast-iron house, founded in Alsace in 1974 by Francis Staub and now part of Zwilling. It is the brand found in Paul Bocuse's kitchens and in most French restaurants, and its pots are built around a few ideas that make them different from Le Creuset.

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What the brand is known for

Three things: the black matte enamel interior, which is textured, seasons slightly over time and hides staining; the flat lid with self-basting spikes (chistera drop structure) that returns condensation to the food; and the heavy, tight-fitting lid that seals in moisture. Staub pots are slightly heavier than Le Creuset at the same size and feel more professional, which is both a plus and a minus.

Which cocotte size

Staub sizes its round cocottes in quarts: 2.75, 4, 5.5, 7 and 9. The 4 quart is the standard for two to four people and slightly smaller than Le Creuset's equivalent; the 5.5 quart is the family size. Because the black interior holds and radiates heat so well, a Staub cocotte will brown food in the pot better than most. The oval 5.75 quart is for roasts and whole birds.

The matte black interior

The interior is enamel, not seasoned iron, so it never needs oiling; but its texture takes on a patina with use that makes it progressively less sticky. Do not scrub it back to new; that patina is the point. It will not show the fond the way a light interior does, so you cook by sound and smell more than sight.

Specialty pieces

Staub's mini cocottes (0.25 and 0.5 quart) are the restaurant classic for individual servings. The Staub perfect pan (a braiser with a glass lid) and the cast-iron frying pans are excellent. The tajine and the fish-shaped cocotte are the pieces people buy as gifts and actually use.

Staub vs Le Creuset, honestly

If you braise, roast and sear more than you simmer and bake, choose Staub: the interior and the lid are built for it. If you make a lot of tomato sauce, soup, risotto and bread, or you like to see what is happening in the pot, choose Le Creuset. The price is similar and both are made in France. Many serious home cooks end up with one of each.

What to buy

ProductWhy
4 qt Round CocotteThe standard size for most households.
5.5 qt Round CocotteFamily size.
5.75 qt Oval CocotteRoasts, whole chickens, long braises.
Mini Cocotte setIndividual servings; the restaurant classic.
Cast Iron Fry Pan 10 inEnamelled skillet with the matte interior.
Cast Iron Grill PanSquare grill pan with pour spouts.

Questions people ask

Why does the Staub lid feel so heavy?

It is deliberately heavy and flat to seal the pot and to hold the self-basting spikes. The result is a braise that needs less liquid and loses less to evaporation.

Can I use metal utensils in a Staub?

Wood or silicone is better. The enamel is hard but can chip, and the matte interior shows metal marks over time.

Is Staub made in France?

All Staub cast iron is still made in Merville, in northern France. Some accessories and the ceramic line are made elsewhere; the listing will say.

More kitchen guides: Le Creuset · Opinel · Peugeot · all brands