Peugeot: the buyer's guide
Before Peugeot made cars it made pepper mills, and it still does, in Franche-Comté, with the case-hardened steel mechanism it patented in 1842 and guarantees for life. It is the mill in most French restaurant kitchens, and the one most other mills imitate.
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What the brand is known for
The grinding mechanism: a double row of helix-cut teeth that first channel and crack the peppercorns, then grind them, so the grind is consistent at every setting. The mechanism is guaranteed for life. The wooden bodies (beech, usually) are turned and lacquered in the same factory. Peugeot also makes salt mills with a separate stainless mechanism, because salt corrodes the pepper steel.
Paris, Bistro and the other shapes
The Paris is the classic hourglass shape sold in sizes from 12 cm (5 in) to 110 cm (a restaurant prop). The Bistro is the short, round 10 cm mill for tables and small kitchens. The Fidji is slimmer and modern; the Hostellerie is the straight restaurant mill; the Madras has an oversized head for grip. They all use the same mechanism, so the choice is about size and looks.
Which size
18 cm (7 in) is the size for most kitchens and tables: large enough to hold a useful amount of pepper and to turn comfortably, small enough to stand on a table. 22 cm (9 in) suits a kitchen counter where it stays by the stove. The 12 cm sizes empty fast and are fiddly to fill. For a pair for the table, 18 cm pepper and 18 cm salt.
u'Select and the grind settings
Standard Peugeot mills set the grind with the top nut, which loosens as you grind. The u'Select version has a six-position ring at the base that locks the grind from fine to coarse and does not drift. It costs more and is worth it; this is the version to buy. The electric Elis and the battery mills use the same mechanism with a motor.
Salt mills and what not to grind
Only grind dry peppercorns and the dry spices the mill is sold for; wet salt, sugar and coriander will damage the pepper mechanism. Salt mills have a ceramic or stainless mechanism and are marked as such; never put salt in a pepper mill. The mill unscrews at the top for filling; do not overfill.
What to buy
| Product | Why |
|---|---|
| Paris u'Select Pepper Mill 18 cm | The one to buy: classic shape, locking grind. |
| Paris u'Select Salt Mill 18 cm | Matching salt mill with stainless mechanism. |
| Paris u'Select Pepper Mill 22 cm | Counter size for the stove. |
| Bistro Salt and Pepper Mill Set 10 cm | Compact table set. |
| Elis Sense Electric Pepper Mill | One-handed electric mill. |
| Tellicherry Peppercorns | The peppercorns worth putting in it. |
Questions people ask
Why does my mill grind unevenly?
Usually the top nut has loosened. Tighten it, or buy the u'Select version, which locks the setting.
Does the lifetime guarantee cover the wood?
No; the guarantee is on the mechanism. The bodies are solid wood and last decades with normal use; keep them away from the dishwasher and the sink.
Is Peugeot the same company as the car maker?
Same family, originally the same company. The mills are now made by PSP Peugeot, a separate company that kept the lion logo and the factory in Quingey.
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