Paris perfume: the buyer's guide
Paris is the perfume capital because the houses are here: Guerlain since 1828, Chanel since 1921, Dior since 1947, and a wave of niche makers since the 1960s. This is a starting map, from the icons to the gifts Parisians actually give, and the one rule about buying fragrance online.
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The icons
Chanel No. 5 (1921, the aldehydic floral that defined modern perfume) and Guerlain Shalimar (1925, the first oriental) are the two bottles every list begins with. Dior's Miss Dior and J'adore are the florals; Sauvage is the men's bestseller in the world. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle and Bleu de Chanel are the modern bestsellers. Buy the eau de parfum, not the eau de toilette, if you want the fragrance to last a day.
Guerlain beyond Shalimar
Guerlain is the house to explore: Jicky (1889, still sold), Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Habit Rouge for men, and the Aqua Allegoria line of lighter, cheaper colognes that are the best-value Guerlain. Mon Guerlain is the current bestseller. The La Petite Robe Noire bottles are the gifts.
The niche houses
Diptyque (1961, Boulevard Saint-Germain) began with candles and its Philosykos (fig) and Do Son (tuberose) are the scents Parisians give as presents. L'Artisan Parfumeur, Annick Goutal (now Goutal Paris), Frédéric Malle and Serge Lutens are the other names worth knowing; Malle's Portrait of a Lady and Lutens' Chergui are modern classics. Expect to pay more than for the icons.
Fragonard, L'Occitane and the pharmacy brands
Fragonard, from Grasse, makes inexpensive, pretty eaux de toilette in gift-shop tins (Belle de Nuit, Soleil) that are the souvenir of choice. L'Occitane's Verbena cologne and Nuxe's Prodigieux Le Parfum are the affordable everyday scents. Roger & Gallet's Jean-Marie Farina is the classic eau de cologne, made since 1806.
The one rule about buying perfume online
Fragrance is the most counterfeited category on Amazon. Buy only from listings sold by Amazon or by the brand's own store, never from a third-party seller at a price far below the brand's; check the batch code on the box against the brand's site if you are unsure; and remember that a tester bottle without a box is a legitimate product but a 'tester' at full price is not a bargain.
What to buy
| Product | Why |
|---|---|
| Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum | The icon. |
| Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Parfum | The first oriental, 1925. |
| Dior Sauvage Eau de Parfum | The men's bestseller. |
| Diptyque Philosykos | The fig; the Paris gift. |
| Guerlain Aqua Allegoria | Best-value Guerlain; several scents. |
| Fragonard Eau de Toilette | The Grasse souvenir in a tin. |
Questions people ask
Eau de parfum or eau de toilette?
Eau de parfum has a higher concentration of oils and lasts longer; eau de toilette is lighter and cheaper. For the same scent, EDP for evening and winter, EDT for daytime and summer.
Why does the same perfume smell different on me?
Skin chemistry, and reformulation: many classics have been changed over the years to meet EU ingredient rules. If a scent you loved years ago smells wrong, it may be the formula, not you.
Is it safe to buy perfume on Amazon?
Yes from Amazon itself and from the brand's official store; no from unknown third-party sellers at low prices.
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